Thursday 21st April Villahermosa del Rio to Vistabella de Maestrazgo

So we watched the first half of the Copa del Rey game last night and went to bed. There was a lot of noise later on but it was difficult to know who won. When we came down for breakfast for the first time since arriving in Spain the television was not on. The owner of the hotel was a Barcelona fan and in mourning. We make a fuss about football in the UK but it is nothing compared to Spain, albeit that it feels like there are only two clubs here. It really is wall to wall.

Christine's birthday and a nice 20 kilometre walk to celebrate, unfortunately the weather was not going to help.

Started by climbing up into Villahermosa and dropping into the bread shop. Full of superb extras for Easter.


Easter baking in Villahermosa del Rio

The first part of the walk was brilliant even if it was a little bit cloudy. It was along a valley with a stream in the bottom. Sometimes you were walking next to the stream and sometimes higher up the valley side. Like the walk a few days ago the stream formed natural pools which on a warmer day would have made a great spot for a swim. We even see some wildlife including deer high up the cliff and staring down at us.


Following the gorge behind Villahermosa del Rio



Being watched

After about 6 kilometres you have to climb from about 800 metres to 1200. The path is brilliant typical of the ancient mule paths which have been such a feature of the walk through Valencia. We gain altitude without noticing the effort. All around are tiny abandoned villages, some clinging high up on the side of the valley, which, particularly as the weather was now getting worse, made everything feel extra remote and wild.



Abandoned villages in the drizzle

It was now drizzling so full waterproofs for the first time in a least three weeks (Christine had decided to leave her waterproof trousers in the UK). Visibility was poor which was such a shame as we were walking along the edge of a huge gorge at 1200 metres.

Eventually the really dramatic scenary comes to an end and we arrive at Sant Joan de Penyagolasa. There is a well restored hermitage and amongst other things a restaurant. Lunch isn't served until 2 and that's not for another hour and I'm a bit nervous about the number of people Easter has attracted into the mountains as we have still to find accommodation in Vistabella de Maestrazgo.

The last couple of hours walking is easy (because its pretty flat, despite being high up), and really fast but it's now raining heavily and very unpleasant. When we get to Vistabella de Maestrazgo it's a typical mountain town in the rain, water everywhere and without anyone in sight. Eventually get the directions of a bar that might have accommodation but it turns out to be full. They see the mess we are in, ring around and find somewhere for us to stay. The bar has a restaurant and as it's still only three we have plenty of time to sit down and have a really nice meal. Chicken for me and braised ox cheek for Christine, washed down with lots of red wine. As we eat and dry off other cyclists and walkers come in steaming from the rain and we feel very much at home.

7 comments:

  1. It is a pity the bad wheather not allowing you to have the fantastic view of Penyagolosa, the second highest peak in the Valencia territory as you have been at the bottom of the highest point.
    What a change there has been in the Monastery de Sant Joan.
    Best wishes for your next step to Morella which is one of the most beautiful towns you will pass in the GR7. Stay there for enough time to have a relaxated visit.

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  2. Even in bad weather you make splendid pictures, John (and Christine?)! Menno

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  3. Hello John,
    I'm stuck in Villahermosa - the nice river became a torrent, thanks to the rains.
    What seems to be a nice idea, routing along the stream and crossing it a few times, makes it a good whether only path. I tried to walk higher up the slope, but got finally stopped five km from Villahermosa. I went back and prepared a new route through the mountains. The locals say, I should be able to walk it even in that rain. But it adds eight or nine km and probably quite a lot of vertical distance. But that's apparently the only alternative short of waiting for a week and hoping for dry whether.
    Each time the path followed a dry river bed I wondered, how it looks after a serious rain. Now I know and I have to revise my opinion: GR7 _is_ a good whether only path. And I'm happy, I walk south - north..
    Tomorrow, I'll start my second attempt at reaching Vistabella...

    greetings
    michael

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  4. Vistabella is lovely but is was raining when I was there as well!

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  5. They report 200 l/m2 in the last 24 hours, but I think it was nearer the coast. The locals say, it will take two or three dry days until one can walk the GR7 again. But I got a look of Penyagolosa between the rain showers - at least that. most of the time it stayed clothed in clouds...
    greetings
    michael

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  6. Hello John,
    I'm in Vistabella now, my alternative route did actually exist (I never know with my maps until I'm there :-/). it was 30km, 1470 m ascend and 750 descent. On a dry day, the route would be very nice with great views. it can be safely walked in rain. I've joined the original GR7 after it climbs out of the valley, at the small, not abandoned (I've seen few guys repairing the houses there today) village, in about 1000m.
    now I look at the way to Culla and I've got a question: can you remember, few km short of Culla the GR7 crosses the Rio Monleon - is there a bridge? was it a serious river, as my map claims? I don't like to walk that far just to realize, that I can't cross it...
    greetings
    michael

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  7. Hi Michael

    When we were there was a big river bed it was but dry. There was no bridge but definitely no water in the river. Not sure how things will be now

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